Life in Phang Nga: Khuraburi & Koh Phra Thong Island

Certified Divemaster!

2010-04-04T01:10:00.000-07:00

The Divemaster certification involved practical application, which included an assessment of our ability to complete underwater skills to demonstration quality, our ability to problem solve in rescue scenarios, equipment exchange with a buddy underwater, leading certified divers, and assisting on open water and advanced open water courses. Along with all of this involved extensive reading on dive theory, equipment, physiology, physics, diving programs, and completing exams on these topics.

As of a few weeks ago, I have officially been certified as a PADI Divemaster! It has been a long and interesting journey since I first arrived in November, and over the past few months I have gained invaluable experience becoming a professional diver. With a few visits out to Richelieu Rock, and regular excursions to the majestic Surin Islands this season, I have been learning the ins-and-outs of the dive industry, all the while diving in some extraordinary places.
I've gained hands on experience skippering boats, guiding certified divers, filling tanks, cleaning equipment, talking with divers and helping them overcome underwater difficulties, fiddled with underwater photography, learned about marketing,accounting, and all about the logistics of creating a successful dive business and improving upon customer service.
I've mapped a dive site, learned a wealth of knowledge about local fish species both by reading and through direct interaction underwater, and have been, with the help of my co-workers, learning more about coral reefs and their incredible importance to the health of the oceans worldwide. I assisted instructors on training courses with new students, and since have met loads of people from all over the world interested in diving.

I have since greatly increased my knowledge of diving, as well as the enjoyment I feel every time I'm underwater. There is always something to explore, to learn, and to appreciate underwater. What an amazing experience this season has been, meeting and working with some fantastic people and sharing the waters with some amazing aquatic creatures.

Richelieu Rock: My New Favorite Place On Earth

2010-01-28T05:39:00.000-08:00

“Did someone slip me some LSD before I went down?” I thought to myself as I ascended from my first dive at Richelieu Rock, and onto the boat. It didn’t seem real. Psychedelic hard and soft corals of all shapes, colors, and sizes were covering absolutely everything in sight. We swam effortlessly with the current around the massive horseshoe-shaped pinnacle, descending to 30 meters and slowly making our way upward. The sun was shining through the water, illuminating with great brilliance the silvery schools of barracuda and trevally which swam in near perfect unison. It was something straight out of National Geographic, except I wasn’t viewing it from a television screen. It was all directly there, surrounding me and easing my mind into a hypnotic-like trance.
The abundance of sea creatures was absolutely mesmerizing, and I couldn’t focus my attention on any one thing for too long, because there were just too many things to be seen. An absolute visual feast at its finest, better even than Coral Reef 3-D at the IMAX; and that’s hard to beat, for sure. But I will no longer need a season-pass to the IMAX for feelings of grandeur; based solely on my first dive to Richelieu Rock, I decided without any ounce of hesitation that I want to dive for the rest of my life.
In a normal dive briefing, one may show fish slates to a fellow diver and point out specifically what fish and other aquatic life might be seen on the dive. This technique needn’t apply to Richelieu because you’ll see nearly everything the fish I.D. slates have to offer.
I have since done 3 more dives at Richelieu, and each dive is filled with new surprises. I think it would be impossible to become bored with a site like that. Octopi, boxer shrimp, moray eels, jacks, trevally, barracuda, lionfish, bearded scorpionfish, anemone fish, giant grouper, nudibranches, schooling bannerfish, moorish idols, puffer and porcupine fish, titan triggerfish, shrimp, and crabs are just a few of the many things I have seen out there. There are also massive gorgonian corals on the southern side of the pinnacle, and multicolored soft corals in abundance all throughout the site.

Richelieu Rock is something straight out of a fantasy, and I’m still in awe as to how a place like that can actually tangibly exist in objective waking reality. It renders me speechless and almost to the point of tears while appreciating the beautiful fluidity of that underwater palace. With a bit of patience, and a steady flow of plankton, I may even have the rare chance to share the water with some ocean giants in the coming months; whale sharks and manta rays. This is paradise.

Beauty Above and Below: Muh Koh Surin Islands Diving

2010-01-25T22:22:00.001-08:00

Approaching the islands by boat, the brilliant shades of turquoise blue water and the fantastic green rainforest make for an incredible view. Both above and below the water, Surin National Park is stunningly beautiful. It is without a doubt the best snorkeling in Thailand, and the diving is excellent as well. With reef walls dropping nearly 30 meters, it is a perfect place for deep and drift diving. The multitude of aquatic life underwater is remarkable; grazing parrotfish, occasional turtles, large schools of tiny fish escaping the hungry mouths of feeding trevallies , slightly territorial triggerfish, lazy sea cucumbers, intimidating giant moray eels, cute box and pufferfish, and some of the largest lobsters I have ever seen in my life.

I’ve been out diving and snorkeling at Surin quite a few times already, and each time I go, I’m just as excited as I was the first time I went. The water is warm, clear, and teeming with life. To be unsatisfied with a dive there, assuming that all has gone well safety-wise, would be complete lunacy. Even the most seasoned of divers would be impressed with the pristine beauty of the underwater world at Surin. Perhaps the greatest advantage of diving in Surin, beauty aside, is the fact that nearly no one dives there. Every single time I have gone we were the only diveboat in the area, having each dive site to explore by ourselves; something which cannot be said for many other dive sites around the country and which, in my opinion, makes for extremely relaxing diving.

Riding out into the open ocean on a dive journey to the islands, setting up equipment on the sun-drenched dive deck, talking with customers about the types of fish and coral we may see, and sharing stories and tips about previous dive experiences, makes for a pretty excellent ‘job.’ Not a bad way to spend the days in my opinion!

On our most recent trip to Surin, I guided my first group of divers as a divemaster trainee, and considering that everyone got back on the boat safely and enjoyed the dive, I think it was a success! It was interesting being in a leadership position, checking depth and air usage, frequently checking on the divers to make sure all was well, trying to find interesting things to show them, and so on… It is definitely a multi-tasking activity, but I really enjoyed it and look forward to practicing and refining my guiding abilities.

We have a trip coming up in a few days, and I already can’t wait to get back in the water out there. The fact that I’m able to be so close to some of the best diving in the country, all whilst doing my dive training, is a pretty special thing. Maybe I’ll be spoiled for the rest my diving career, but the diving around here is truly spectacular, and surely worth being enjoyed to the fullest.

Local Diving: Hornbill Hill

2009-12-22T07:21:00.000-08:00

At first I wasn't overly impressed with the closest dive site we have on Koh Phra Thong; Hornbill Hill (or Rocks). But having dived there a number of times now I have really come to enjoy it for many reasons. Not only is it a picturesque two minute walk from the diveshop, but when the visibility is good, there is loads of aquatic life to be seen.

The shy, giant pufferfish I've seen on a few occasions, the ever-present schools of curious batfish that follow us around on dives, the large dark surgeon and colorful parrotfishes, moray eels, nudibranches, crabs, shrimps, lobsters, cuttlefish, and many more make it a very interesting site to dive.

The visibility ranges from 1 to 6m or so, depending on the tides and currents. It has gotten pretty murky there before, but I still enjoy it, as it helps reinforce my underwater

navigation skills, of which I'd really like to master.

It's an excellent training area because the deepest it gets is around 8 meters, yet it is still teeming with life.

I personally like moray eels, and I've seen atleast 1 everytime I have gone for a dive there, usually a large honeycomb moray. It's also exciting finding the nudibranches (trippy sea slugs) as it takes a bit of patience and a good eye to spot them on the

massive rock formations.

For a really experienced diver, or a spoiled diver who has only dived a few times in the top sites in the world where visibility can reach 30m or more...hornbill hill isn't something you'd write home about, or go out of your way to visit. But for me, at this learning stage in my diving experience, the fact that the site is a 2 minute walk from the shop and provides an excellent training ground for underwater nav skills, exploration, and fish identification is as much as I could ask for, and we more or less can dive whenever we want... which I think is a pretty special privilege to have. I'm here to blow bubbles! :))

Koh Surin National Park

2009-11-24T18:39:00.000-08:00

Koh Surin National Park

We were up by 6:30am in order to meet up with the speedboat that would take us out to the Surin Islands, some 50 kilometers or more out to sea. The Surin National Park is considered the best snorkeling in Thailand, so I was anxious with excitement to get out there and under the water. After about an hour I could see the outline of the islands in the distance. I felt like jumping and dancing for joy, but restrained myself as best I could so the other 20 or so foreigners on the boat wouldn't think I had lost my head.
When we arrived at the first snorkeling spot, one of the staff members began to brief the other passengers about the area and types of fish we might be able to see. I wasn't having any of that, so I sped to the front of the boat, strapped on my snorkel gear and plunged into the water.
WOW. A multitude of fish, soft corals, hard corals, anemones, sea urchins. Entire ecosystems just meters below me, calling out to be explored.
I turned on my camera and proceeded to go photo-crazy. I dove head first into the deep blue outcrops of the seaward reef, exploring every little crevice and cave-hole, hoping to find something special and interesting. I swam slowly through schools of parrotfish, and watched them graze on the coral. I found Nemo hiding shyly among the waving anemones. I followed the infamous Titan triggerfish as they patrolled their home turf. I watched surgeon fish chase away intruders, and marveled at the graceful bannerfish feeding among the reefs.

Beautiful blue, green, and red corals were everywhere, and it was then I realized what all the hype about Surin was. It really is amazing.
Hopefully not too long from now, we'll be heading out for a diving trip because there looked like endless places to explore the deep blue depths. I absoultely can't wait to go back to Surin. I would have stayed in the water all day, even though my skin was slowly melting away from being so water-logged.
I continue to remind myself everyday how lucky I am to have found such an opportunity like this. Living on an island, diving, snorkeling, helping with land tours and being a translator, getting to know the locals, and being just a boat trip away from the best diving in the country. I'm not leaving any time soon if I can help it. This is truly a special place!

Underwater Video of Snorkeling at Surin!!! Check it out...

Back to Nature: Koh Phra Thong

2009-11-11T04:32:00.001-08:00

I've been on the island for a few days already, setting up the diveshop, diving, participating in Open Water courses, meeting new people, eating delicious food,and enjoying the unspoiled landscape of the island. I still feel like I'm dreaming a bit.

After a leisurely boat ride from Khuraburi, I arrived at Koh Phra Thong on what seemed to be a deserted beach. From a distance, I could make out a few bamboo structures among the coconut trees behind the shoreline. There were no other boats. It was just us, our scuba equipment, a few bags of personal items, and the long-tail boat that carried us there. I didn't know what to expect. I kept waiting to wake up and realize I had imagined it all, but it was no joke; I was about to step foot onto a slice of paradise.
Walking through the island along the sandy paths and green canopy of coconut trees and jungle evoked a feeling of really having found something special. To think that this place can exist in Thailand, in terms of islands and beaches which are usually overcrowded and flooded with concrete and 7-11's, completely astounds me. This island is what most islands in Thailand must have been like 20 or 30 years ago. I almost don't want to write about it because I don't want to see it turn into all-night raving parties and whiskey buckets which are common place on nearly any island in South East Asia.
It's just nature here. There are a few villages here, and only 1 resort which basically blends in with the jungle. It feels straight out of the Swiss Family Robinson movie...but it's real. It's here. It actually exists. And it's absolutely beautiful.
The interior of the island reminds me of the African plains, and Hornbills are very common. Supposedly there are reticulated pythons as well....I'd really like to see one!
Monkeys hop freely from tree to tree, occasionally dropping coconuts on their way. It's like a zoo without all the glass barriers and cages, animals are everywhere!

Return to Civilization: Khao Lak

2009-11-04T20:33:00.000-08:00

From Khuraburi, a tiny town with one gas station, one bar, and a variety of other small mom-and-pop shops and food stalls, a day trip to Khao Lak seemed like a big adventure. I had never been there, only knowing about it by word of mouth and tales from other travelers labeling it as one of the prime spots in Thailand for Live-aboard boat diving. The consensus had been that Khao Lak was once a sleepy, pristine little Thai town before the sudden boom and influx of dive shops and tourists. It’s still strange to me how quickly certain places can develop dramatically in the course of a few years in Thailand. Having lived in this country almost 3 years now I’ve tended to steer clear of over-touristy areas, as the vibe tends to be much different from the side of Thailand I have come to know and love. Nonetheless, I decided to go and have a look for myself, as I generally don’t like making assumptions about places I’ve never been, and things I’ve never experienced…..and we also had to go and pick up a dive supply order!

As we (Chris, Owner of Blue Guru, and I) got closer to Khao Lak, there were a few resorts scattered around the area, looking rather posh and far more expensive than I can currently afford, if ever. And then I saw it… the first impression I received from Khao Lak; monkeys on tricycles. It was a massive billboard advertising an ‘Elephant Camp’ and wild animal show, including snake taming, and yes….monkeys capable of operating 3 wheeled simple machines. Perhaps I was just tired or in a funny mood, but uncontrollable laughter ensued at the thought. However, I decided I wouldn’t give up on Khao Lak too soon, thinking that once I got into the heart of it, it may not seem so much like a touristy circus.
Souvenir shops, mini-markets, 7-11’s, and strangely enough, Opticians abounded. I couldn’t imagine there being such a high demand for eyeglasses in such a small place, and thought half-jokingly they must have been front businesses for money laundering, or selling drugs. One Dive-shop…two…three…five clustered together…and then there soon became too many to count. There must have been 20 or 30.
The rumors were true; Khao Lak was loaded with all things western. Not necessarily a bad thing though, for after living out in the ‘sticks,’ it’s still sometimes nice to find a taste of home once in awhile. And so, we succumbed to the temptations of a quick and easy meal at the recently built McDonalds in the center of town. I’d have to say, it was the nicest building around, looking smooth, shiny, and space-agey, and it had air-conditioning, which was certainly a plus.
After finishing a satisfying feast of burgers and shoestring fries (how they manage to taste the same in every McDonalds around the world is still a mystery to me) we ventured out into the streets to explore the area. We were hailed by hawkers and taxi drivers, yelling at us some of the only words they probably knew in English, generally being about the services they offered or products they sold, “Taxi! T-shirt! Souvenir! Drink!” I might have taken them up if they’d offered a free V.I.P. pass to see the mesmerizing tricycle monkeys in action, but I suppose an opportunity like that would only arise for a very fortunate few…
We then made our way to Khao Lak Scuba Adventures to pick up our dive order, and sat down at the shop to talk with some other divers. One conversation led to another, and before we knew it, we were 3 or 4 beers deep and making new friends and acquaintances. All in all, it was a nice day out in Khao Lak, and it is actually a pretty pleasant and beautiful area. Nonetheless, I was glad to realize that I’d rather be interning on Koh Phra Thong, where the anonymity of large dive operations has yet to come.

The Dam Trip

2009-10-30T03:24:00.000-07:00

I was a bit wary at first, thinking my old two-stroke motorbike wouldn’t be able to handle the rolling hills that led out of town toward the Khuraburi Dam. Nonetheless, I hopped on and puttered slowly out of town, much to the amusement of the locals who were most likely thinking, “Why does that foreigner have such a shitty ride?” As I drove along the winding road, houses, people, and vehicles became less frequent. I was really hoping then that my motorbike wouldn’t breakdown; otherwise it would be a long walk back to town in the sweltering heat of midday. But my worries soon passed as I redirected my attention to the surrounding scenery.

My eyes were besieged by the blanket of rich green hues that covered the landscape in every direction. The air was fresh and pleasant, and I drove slowly to try and take it all in. Every once in a while I passed tree plantations and napping farmers catching shade under their thatched roof huts. A verdant, low rising mountain ridge created a beautiful division between the thick jungle and the light blue sky. The great sphere in the sky was shining in full force, yet doused my skin with a delightful tinge, and I noticed the smile that had slowly crept upon my face. Really, what a gorgeous day! What an absolutely beautiful place! And to think… the fact that this place is so close to the tourist Mecca of Phuket and is seldom, if at all visited by tourists, completely baffles me. Then again, I quite enjoy it this way; no all night disco-techs, go-go bars, happy hour specials, overpriced souvenirs, or aggressive tuk-tuk drivers. It’s just nature! Maybe I sound like a hippie, or a bit of a romantic, but to be honest… this area is truly a visual feast; aesthetically magnificent.

After a thirty minute pleasure cruise I finally arrived at the Dam, and parked my bike alongside the bridge. I was greeted by the soothing sounds of birds, rustling leaves, churning water, and laughing locals swimming and playing. Shouts rang out and arms rose as they noticed me arrive, “Hello! Hello!” I turned slowly, all the way around, and admired the immediate surroundings, taking a few photos of the rocky stream and hillsides. It was so quiet there, and beautiful.

I walked around the area, taking a few more photos until the camera battery failed. I got some basic pictures though, so I was pretty satisfied. I generally don’t like taking pictures as I don’t believe they can adequately do an experience justice. In my opinion, it’s always better to actually be there. But I’ve decided to stop being so selfish and to start sharing some pictures with the world, so if anyone may be interested in vicariously experiencing the places I go and the things I see, they are more than welcome to do so. Sorry I haven’t had a camera for three years…but I’m getting there!

The locals were certainly eager to have their picture taken, and called out to me in Thai to join them for a swim in front of the dam. I didn’t end up getting in because my ear still hadn’t fully healed from when I went scuba diving in Malaysia last week, so I thought it best to keep it dry. Perhaps another day though!

After awhile of sitting and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, I got back on my motorbike and started the journey back to town. I again drove slowly, and relished the pure brilliance of the nice weather. The towering, seemingly motionless cumulus clouds on the backdrop of the clear blue sky, and the gentle breeze waving through the grass and trees made it seem as though I was driving through a painting. Ahhhhhhh…..today was enjoyable.